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June 19, 2013 |
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Backpacking Training
Many backpackers pay a lot of attention to their gear but pay little or no
attention to their own body. Properly training before going on a backpacking
trip can greatly reduce the risk of injury, and help you enjoy your trip. Before
beginning any training program should get approval, and a check up from your
physician.
Good aerobic conditioning and a strong body are the keys to a safe and rewarding
backpacking trip. Exercises should be performed to strengthen your feet, ankles,
and back. If you have weak ankles you will still have problems even if you have
good boots. Practice calf raises barefoot on a wood floor to strengthen your
toes and entire foot. Perform exercises to strengthen your back since it will
be under additional stress during your trip. Instead of just performing regular
cardiovascular exercises, load up a backpack with the weight you expect to be
carrying on the trail go for short training walks. Gradually increase the distance
of your training walks. It is amazing how gradually your body gets accustomed
to the added weight, until eventually you hardly notice it.
Visit Lightweight Backpacking 101 for additional training tips if you are new to backpacking.
More Details About Jon Hörst's 5.14a Climb<p><img class="alignnone" src="http://0.tqn.com/h/climbing/1/H/c/I/-/-/Horst_Jon_GodsOwnStone4.jpg" alt="null" /></p>
<p>Here is more information that Eric Hörst just sent me about <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2013/03/10/jon-horst-sends-5-14a-route-at-age-10.htm">Jon Hörst's ascent</a> of <em>God's Own Stone</em> at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky.</p>
<p>Eric reports that Jon worked the route twice and "really struggled" on Friday. Then he came back fresh on Saturday and dialed the feet in before sending it on his fourth try.</p>
<p>"Of course," says Eric, "he had the advantage of Cameron's excellent <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/climbersslang/a/BetaDef.htm">beta</a> from last year. Jon did everything pretty much the same, even though Jon is four inches shorter, but that means Jon had to do several <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/cliimbingtechniques/a/Dynamic-Moves-Dynos-And-Deadpoints.htm">semi-dynamic reaches</a> that Cam could do statically. One difference is that Jon didn't skip the crux clip, which Cam scarily skipped to avoid stopping on a tiny hold."</p>
<p><img class="alignnone" src="http://0.tqn.com/h/climbing/1/3/d/I/-/-/Horst_Jon_closeup_2.jpg" alt="Jon Horst at Red River Gorge in Kentucky." /></p>
<p>"Jon trained for this route this winter," says Eric. "I knew he had the power and mind to do it this season, based on the targeted simulation training we did this winter. So once he had the feet figured out, it become a do-able send for him."</p>
<p>Lastly, Eric says, "This ascent was all self-motivated. Jon has been planning this for some time. Back on New Year's Eve, when we each make our goals list for the year, one of Jon's goals was to do <em>God's Own Stone</em>. He has been training for it and it was our plan to begin work on it this weekend and hopefully do it this spring sometime. Well, J-Beast took care of business quickly!"</p>
<p>Last year a couple kids--Brooke Raboutou from Boulder, Colorado and Tito, an Italian boy--made clean ascents of a 5.14a route at age 10 years 11 months, making Jon Hörst the new record holder for the youngest climber to climb a 5.14a route.</p>
<p>Photographs above: <em>Jonathan Hörst climbed "God's Own Stone" at the Red River Gorge, becoming the youngest climber in the world to climb a 5.14a route.</em> Photographs © Eric Hörst</p><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2013/03/10/more-details-about-jon-horsts-5-14a-climb.htm">More Details About Jon Hörst's 5.14a Climb</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Sunday, March 10th, 2013 at 21:55:02.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2013/03/10/more-details-about-jon-horsts-5-14a-climb.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2013/03/10/more-details-about-jon-horsts-5-14a-climb.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2013/03/10/more-details-about-jon-horsts-5-14a-climb.htm&zItl=More Details About Jon Hörst's 5.14a Climb">Email this</a></p>
Jon Hörst Sends 5.14a Route at Age 10!<p><img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/b/I/-/-/JonHorst_GodsOwnStone_2013_3.jpg" alt="hspace=" align="center" /></p>
<p>Here's some cool breaking news from <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/climbingphotos/ig/New-River-Gorge-Climb-Photos/Likme.htm">Eric Hörst</a> in Pennsylvania, who right now is driving back home from Kentucky's Red River Gorge with his wife Lisa and sons <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2010/07/21/nine-year-old-boy-leads-5-13a-at-shelf-road.htm">Cameron</a> and Jonathan. Eric sent me this message: "Did you see about Jon sending 14a yesterday...youngest ever to do so! Sick. So strong...Send Bros killing it."</p>
<p>After training all winter under Eric's watchful eye (Eric is the author of numerous training books including <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D5851%2Fform_keyword%3Dtraining%252Bfor%252Bclimbing%252Beric%252Bhorst%2Frd_type%3DC%2Frd%3D1&mode=about_climbing">Training for Climbing</a> and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D5851%2Fform_keyword%3Dhow%252Bto%252Bclimb%252B5.12%252Beric%252Bhorst%2Frd_type%3DC%2Frd%3D1&mode=about_climbing">How to Climb 5.12</a> for <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Dclimbing%2Bfalcon%2Bguides&mode=about_climbing">FalconGuides</a>) was a productive weekend for Jonathan on his first climbing weekend this year.</p>
<p>Yesterday, March 9, Jon, at age 10 years and 7 months, climbed his first 5.14a route--<em>God's Own Stone</em> at the Red's Gold Coast sector. His older brother Cameron sent it early last April for his first 5.14. Eric says that Jon is "likely the youngest person ever to climb the grade."</p>
<p>He also gave a shout-out: "J-Beast crushes!!!" Congrats Jon. Keep shredding it!</p>
<p><strong>Want to crush rock like Jon and Cam Hörst? Read Eric Hörst's training books.<br />
<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D5851%2Fform_keyword%3Dtraining%252Bfor%252Bclimbing%252Beric%252Bhorst%2Frd_type%3DC%2Frd%3D1&mode=about_climbing">Training for Climbing</a><br />
<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D5851%2Fform_keyword%3Dhow%252Bto%252Bclimb%252B5.12%252Beric%252Bhorst%2Frd_type%3DC%2Frd%3D1&mode=about_climbing">How to Climb 5.12</a><br />
<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Dmaximum%2Bclimbing%2Beric%2Bhorst&mode=about_climbing">Maximum Climbing</a><br />
<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Dconditioning%2Bfor%2Bclimbers%2Beric%2Bhorst&mode=about_climbing">Conditioning for Climbers</a></strong></p>
<p>Photograph above: <em>Jon Hörst cranking "God's Own Stone" yesterday at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky.</em> Photograph © Eric Hörst</p><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2013/03/10/jon-horst-sends-5-14a-route-at-age-10.htm">Jon Hörst Sends 5.14a Route at Age 10!</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Sunday, March 10th, 2013 at 17:58:41.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2013/03/10/jon-horst-sends-5-14a-route-at-age-10.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2013/03/10/jon-horst-sends-5-14a-route-at-age-10.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2013/03/10/jon-horst-sends-5-14a-route-at-age-10.htm&zItl=Jon Hörst Sends 5.14a Route at Age 10!">Email this</a></p>
6 New Book Gifts for Climbers and Mountaineers<p>Every climber likes climbing books, especially ones about climbing history, training for climbing, and guidebooks, which are books of climbing dreams. Here are six books that make great gifts for the climber on your holiday list. Check it once. Check it twice. Then buy a couple great books at greatly discounted prices! Order now for delivery before Christmas.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D5851%2Fform_keyword%3DInto%252Bthe%252BSilence%25253A%252BThe%252BGreat%252BWar%25252C%252BMallory%25252C%252Band%252Bthe%252BConquest%252Bof%252BEverest%252Bby%252BWade%252BDavis%2Frd_type%3DC%2Frd%3D1&mode=about_climbing">Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory, and the Conquest of Everest</a></strong> by Wade Davis. 2012. Vintage. 688 pages. $16.95.<br />
<img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/4/I/-/-/BooK_IntoTheSilence1.jpg" alt="hspace=" /><br />
This definitive book, a captivating read, details the attempts on Mount Everest in the 1920s by George Mallory and his fellow adventurers in the chaotic post-World War I world and the ending of British colonialism. This epic story is one of the best climbing historys yet written--perfect for the climber on your gift list.<br />
<a href="http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D5851%2Fform_keyword%3DInto%252Bthe%252BSilence%25253A%252BThe%252BGreat%252BWar%25252C%252BMallory%25252C%252Band%252Bthe%252BConquest%252Bof%252BEverest%252Bby%252BWade%252BDavis%2Frd_type%3DC%2Frd%3D1&mode=about_climbing">BUY <strong>Into the Silence</strong> from $4.99.</a></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D5851%2Fform_keyword%3Dtraining%252Bfor%252Bclimbing%252Bbook%252Beric%252Bhorst%2Frd_type%3DC%2Frd%3D1&mode=about_climbing">Training for Climbing 2 Edition</a></strong> by Eric Horst. 2012. FalconGuides. 282 pages. $18.95.<br />
<img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/3/I/-/-/TrainingforClimbingCover3.jpg" alt="hspace=" /><br />
Eric's book is a must-have for every serious climber who wants to improve and climb harder and better. This<br />
new edition is also an enhanced digital book that can be downloaded onto your computer, iPhone, and iPad. It has links, interactive photos, video, and all the great training content from the first edition.<br />
<a href="http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D5851%2Fform_keyword%3Dtraining%252Bfor%252Bclimbing%252Bbook%252Beric%252Bhorst%2Frd_type%3DC%2Frd%3D1&mode=about_climbing">BUY <strong>Training for Climbing</strong> from $14.10.</a></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Utah-2nd-State/dp/0762744510/ref=la_B001JSAFU2_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1355861532&sr=1-5">Rock Climbing Utah</a></strong> by Stewart M. Green. 2012. FalconGuides. 608 pages. $40.00.<br />
<img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/2/I/-/-/RockClimbingUtahcover2.jpg" alt="hspace=" /><br />
The new second edition of FalconGuide's best-selling climbing guidebook <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Utah-2nd-State/dp/0762744510/ref=la_B001JSAFU2_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1355861532&sr=1-5">Rock Climbing Utah</a> features more climbing areas, more routes, and route topos and action photos in 4-color photographs. The thick book should be in every climber's traveling library.<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Utah-2nd-State/dp/0762744510/ref=la_B001JSAFU2_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1355861532&sr=1-5">BUY <strong>Rock Climbing Utah</strong> from $30.30.</a></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Dbuilding%2Byour%2Bown%2Bclimbing%2Bwall%2Bbook%2Bfalcon&mode=about_climbing">Building Your Own Climbing Wall</a></strong> by Steve Lage. 2012. FalconGuides. 134 pages. $18.95.<br />
<img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/1/I/-/-/BuildClimbingWallCover2.jpg" alt="hspace=" /><br />
If you want to improve your climbing strength and skills, you need to train. This new how-to book from FalconGuides tells you how to plan and make your own indoor or outdoor climbing wall, including seven designs to fit almost any space.<br />
<a href="http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Dbuilding%2Byour%2Bown%2Bclimbing%2Bwall%2Bbook%2Bfalcon&mode=about_climbing">BUY <strong>Building Your Own Climbing Wall</strong> from $18.95.</a></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3DThe%2BWill%2Bto%2BClimb%253A%2BObsession%2Band%2BCommitment%2Band%2Bthe%2BQuest%2Bto%2BClimb%2BAnnapurna%2Bbook&mode=about_climbing">The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna--the World's Deadliest Peak</a></strong> by Ed Viesturs and David Roberts. 2012. Broadway. $15.00.<br />
Ed Viesturs, first American to climb the 14 8,000-meter peaks without oxygen, teamed up with David Roberts to explore the fascinating history of Annapurna, one of the most dangerous of the world's high peaks. While Everest get the attention in other books, this engaging account brings to life the preserverence, brutality, and tragedy of high-altitude mountaineering through Viesturs three attempts on Annapurna.<br />
<a href="http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3DThe%2BWill%2Bto%2BClimb%253A%2BObsession%2Band%2BCommitment%2Band%2Bthe%2BQuest%2Bto%2BClimb%2BAnnapurna%2Bbook&mode=about_climbing">BUY <strong>The Will to Climb</strong> from $8.00.</a></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D5851%2Fform_keyword%3DClimbing%252Bthe%252BSeven%252BSummits%252Bbook%2Frd_type%3DC%2Frd%3D1&mode=about_climbing">Climbing the Seven Summits</a></strong> by Mike Hamill. 2012. Mountaineers Books. 352 pages. $29.95.<br />
A comprehensive book on climbing the Seven Summits, the seven highest mountains on the seven continents. Besides being of interest to mountaineers, it is a great gift for armchair climbers who want to know more about why people climb mountains. This coffee table book is filled with great photographs as well as lots of climbing history and facts.<br />
<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch_attrib.php%2Fpage_id%3D5851%2Fform_keyword%3DClimbing%252Bthe%252BSeven%252BSummits%252Bbook%2Frd_type%3DC%2Frd%3D1&mode=about_climbing">BUY The Seven Summits from $19.77.</a></p><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/12/18/6-new-book-gifts-for-climbers-and-mountaineers.htm">6 New Book Gifts for Climbers and Mountaineers </a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Tuesday, December 18th, 2012 at 16:17:38.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/12/18/6-new-book-gifts-for-climbers-and-mountaineers.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/12/18/6-new-book-gifts-for-climbers-and-mountaineers.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/12/18/6-new-book-gifts-for-climbers-and-mountaineers.htm&zItl=6 New Book Gifts for Climbers and Mountaineers ">Email this</a></p>
Who are the 5 Greatest Mount Everest Climbers?<p><img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/W/1/-/-/MtEverest_Getty_1.jpg" alt="" hspace="5" align="center" /></p>
<p>Who are the greatest <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/mountainclimbing/a/EverestFacts.htm">Mount Everest</a> climbers? So many great climbers have ascended Everest, the highest mountain in the world. They've had great adventures and done great new routes. Some have <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/mountainclimbing/a/Death-On-Mount-Everest.htm">died on its snow and rock flanks</a>, but most have returned to the everyday world. I posted a new article -- <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/Mount-Everest/ss/The-5-Greatest-Mount-Everest-Climbers.htm">The Five Greatest Mount Everest Climbers</a> -- that details some of the greatest climbers to visit Mount Everest.</p>
<p>It's almost impossible to put together a list of the five greatest Everest alpinists but folks like lists so I came up with my five -- <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/Mount-Everest/ss/The-5-Greatest-Mount-Everest-Climbers.htm">George Mallory, Reinhold Messner</a>, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/Mount-Everest/ss/The-5-Greatest-Mount-Everest-Climbers_3.htm">Sir Edmund Hillary</a>, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/Mount-Everest/ss/The-5-Greatest-Mount-Everest-Climbers_4.htm">Tenzing Norgay</a>, and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/Mount-Everest/ss/The-5-Greatest-Mount-Everest-Climbers_5.htm">Eric Shipton</a>. But for almost every one of those great moutaineers, another could be substituted. Perhaps I should group climbers from a team together, like Hillary and Tenzing.</p>
<p>If I did that, then who should be added to the list. Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld perhaps. The pair did the first ascent of the West Ridge alpine style in 1963 while the rest of the American expedition did the big expedition thing to place Jim Whitaker on top as the first American. Continuing their climb after the West Ridge, Hornbein and Unsoeld descended the Southeast Ridge, doing the first traverse of Mount Everest.</p>
<p><img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/E/A/-/-/Everest_Mallory_1.jpg" alt="" hspace="5" align="right" /></p>
<p>Jochen Hemmleb, an Everest veteran and member of the 1999 team that found Mallory's body on the North Face, suggested on my <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://www.facebook.com/pages/Aboutcom-Climbing/290747890937106">Facebook page</a> that Edward Felix Norton should be considered for the top five. Jochen wrote that Norton, on the 1924 expedition with Mallory, climbed with "no specialized training, no oxygen, 8572 m in gaberdine and nailed boots, and still bright enough in his head to realize that he would not make the top until dark and thus decided to turn around (and lived to tell the tale)."</p>
<p>Then there are other great climbers, like the expedition with Stephen Venables and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/climbingbooksandquotes/a/WebsterQuoe.htm">Ed Webster</a> that climbed the Kangshang Face; Junko Takei, the first woman to climb Everest; and, of course, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/05/13/mount-everest-update-dangerous-conditions-cancelled-expeditions-global-warming-and-whiskey.htm">Apa Sherpa</a>, who climbed Everest this past spring for the 21st time. I guess I'll have to revise the list and put together a top ten of the greatest Mount Everest climbers.</p>
<p>Read <strong><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/Mount-Everest/ss/The-5-Greatest-Mount-Everest-Climbers.htm">The Five Greatest Mount Everest Climbers</a></strong>.</p>
<p>Photographs above: <em>Mount Everest (top) is the arena that attracts some of the world's great climbers, including George Mallory (bottom), one of Britain's best climbers in the early 1920s.</em> Photographs © Getty Images.</p><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/10/11/who-are-the-5-greatest-mount-everest-climbers.htm">Who are the 5 Greatest Mount Everest Climbers?</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Thursday, October 11th, 2012 at 19:09:01.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/10/11/who-are-the-5-greatest-mount-everest-climbers.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/10/11/who-are-the-5-greatest-mount-everest-climbers.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/10/11/who-are-the-5-greatest-mount-everest-climbers.htm&zItl=Who are the 5 Greatest Mount Everest Climbers?">Email this</a></p>
All About Pitons: Old School Tools for New Climbing Adventures<p><img src=
"http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/C/H/-/-/EricTotemSummit_33.jpg"
alt="" hspace="5" align="center"></p>
<p>I started climbing as a kid in the mid-1960s when every climber
still carried a rack of <a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbingequipmentwords/a/PitonsDef.htm">
pitons</a> to protect routes and create anchors. At the base of
<em>The Army Route</em> on The Pinnacle in North Cheyenne
Cañon, the first multi-pitch route I ever did, my older
brother Mark picked up a fist-sized hunk of <a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/mountainandrockwords/a/GraniteDef.htm">
granite</a> and thrust it at me, saying, "Use this to knock the
pitons out!." Needless to say, that primitive rock hammer promptly
fell apart when I tried to remove the first <a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/Pitons/a/Lost-Arrow-Pitons.htm">Lost
Arrow piton</a> on the route.</p>
<p>Pitons, simply spikes of metal with an eye for clipping a
<a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/Carabiners.htm">carabiner</a>,
are <a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/The-Evolution-Of-Pitons-In-Rock-Climbing.htm">
old-school climbing tools</a> for new vertical adventures. They
come in a wide variety of shapes and size and lengths that fit
seams and <a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/cliimbingtechniques/a/Learn-To-Crack-Climb.htm">
cracks</a> encountered on a climb.</p>
<p>While pitons once revolutionized climbing protection and the
invention and use of hard-metal pitons made of chrome molybdenum
steel made the ascent of <a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/AidClimbing/a/Big-Wall-Climbing-And-Training-Tips.htm">
big walls</a> in Yosemite Valley possible, pitons, because they
damage the rock by repeated placement and removal, were replaced on
a climber's rack by <a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/All-About-Nuts-Chocks-Wired-Nuts-And-Micro-Nuts.htm">
nuts</a> and <a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/All-About-SLCDs.htm">cams</a>
during the <a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/The-Clean-Climbing-Revolution.htm">
Clean Climbing Revolution</a> in the 1970s.</p>
<p>Still though, pitons are carried and used by aid climbers when
nothing else will work on big wall routes as well as by alpine
climbers who pound pins into cracks filled with ice, gravel, and
frozen dirt. Do not, however, use pitons on routes that can be
climbed with clean gear since pins do damage the rock.</p>
<p>Find out more about pitons, <a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/The-Evolution-Of-Pitons-In-Rock-Climbing.htm">
their history</a>, how they damage rock, and the different <a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/tp/Types-Of-Pitons.htm">types
of pitons</a> in a new series of articles:<br />
<br />
<b><a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/The-Evolution-Of-Pitons-In-Rock-Climbing.htm">
Evolution of Pitons in Rock Climbing: Using Pitons for Anchors and
Protection</a><br />
<a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/The-Clean-Climbing-Revolution.htm">
The Clean Climbing Revolution: Pitons Cause Damage to Rock
Environments</a><br />
<a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/tp/Types-Of-Pitons.htm">Types
of Pitons: Climbers Use Pitons for Secondary Anchors</a><br />
<a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/Pitons/a/Lost-Arrow-Pitons.htm">Lost
Arrow Pitons: Durable and Versatile Pitons for Climbing</a><br />
<a href=
"http://climbing.about.com/od/climbingequipmentwords/a/Angle-Pitons.htm">
Angle Pitons: Workhorses of the 1960s Rack</a></b></p>
<p>Photograph above: <em>Eric Bjornstad with a pile of pitons on
the summit of The Totem Pole in Monument Valley during the filming
of <em>The Eiger Sanction</em> in the early 1970s. Eric and Ken
Wyrick, who made the sixth ascent of the tower during the filming,
aided up cracks to the summit by pounding pitons for aid.</em>
Photograph courtesy Eric Bjornstad Collection.</p>
<p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/09/10/all-about-pitons-old-school-tools-for-new-climbing-adventures.htm">All About Pitons: Old School Tools for New Climbing Adventures</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Monday, September 10th, 2012 at 10:51:30.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/09/10/all-about-pitons-old-school-tools-for-new-climbing-adventures.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/09/10/all-about-pitons-old-school-tools-for-new-climbing-adventures.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/09/10/all-about-pitons-old-school-tools-for-new-climbing-adventures.htm&zItl=All About Pitons: Old School Tools for New Climbing Adventures">Email this</a></p>
Ultra-Climber Attempting to Climb 58 Colorado Fourteeners in 11 Days<p><img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/N/G/-/-/CapitolPeak_SpSwngr006_3.jpg" alt="" hspace="5" align="center" /></p>
<p>Ultra-endurance mountaineer John Prater, nicknamed "Homie" on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.14ers.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&#038;t=37125">14ers.com</a>, is three days into trying to climb Colorado's 58 <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/mountainclimbing/a/Fourteeners1.htm">Fourteeners</a> or 14,000-foot mountains (including some unranked 14ers) in a new record time. Homie started the clock at 5:15 a.m. on Thursday morning in the Needle Mountains in southwest Colorado. He had backpacked up to Chicago Basin the day before for the jumping-off point.</p>
<p>The current record is held by <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.thedogteam.com/14ers-Web_Pages/Colorado_Fourteeners/14ers-index-frame.html">Ted Keizer AKA Cave Dog</a> who ran up and down <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/mountainclimbing/a/Fourteeners2.htm">55 Fourteeners</a> in September, 2001 in 10 days 20 hours and 26 minutes. Keizer, then 28 years old, did two years of training and enlisted a support crew. "All I had to do was hike, eat, sleep and run," he said.</p>
<p>Cave Dog also wrote to Prater on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.14ers.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&#038;t=37125&#038;start=72">14ers.com</a> last Thursday: "Good luck. I wish you a wonderful and successful adventure. It will be amazing. As you know, the 14ers are one of a kind. From the grand peaks of the Elks and San Juans to the long hikes of the Sawatchs, from the knobby rock of the <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/historyofclimbing/a/1916-First-Ascent-Of-Classic-Colorado-Peaks.htm">Crestones</a> to the inspiring <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/coloradosfourteeners/ss/Climbing-Longs-Peak-Keyhole-Route-Description.htm">Longs</a>, there is so much variety. However, you will see them in a new light during this adventure, a perspective that few have had. No matter what happens, that is yours forever. I wish you clear skies and a hiatus from the lightning. I wish you a hold out sky pilot and a late blooming Indian paint brush, many mountain goats and big horns, and the most awe inspiring of views. You will see so much and experience so much in the coming days. Live it. Treasure it. And, break that record."</p>
<p>Prater climbed the first two Fourteeners--Windom and Sunlight Peaks--in a mere 2 hours last Thursday morning and then bagged Eolus and North Eolus before running back down to the <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://summer.about.com/od/travelvacations/a/train.htm">narrow gauge railroad</a> and taking the train to <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://usparks.about.com/blroads-co.htm">Silverton</a> to meet his support crew. He then headed over to the San Miguel Range and climbed El Diente Peak, Mount Wilson, and Wilson Peak, three of the harder Fourteeners, before the day was done, but getting completely soaked in heavy rain on the mountains.</p>
<p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.wwwright.com/climbing/speed/">Bill Wright</a>, a speed climber in Boulder, Colorado and co-author of <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://about.pricegrabber.com/mrdr.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fabout.pricegrabber.com%2Fsearch.php%3Fform_keyword%3Dspeed%2Bclimbing%2Bbook%2Bhans%2Bflorine&#038;mode=about_climbing">Speed Climbing</a> with <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/07/03/florine-and-honnold-speed-climb-el-cap-in-record-time.htm">Hans Florine</a>, was Homie's support crew for the first few days of the marathon, driving at breakneck speeds, cooking meals, and writing on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://homieprater.blogspot.com/">Prater's blog</a>. Wright parked at the Rock of Ages trailhead below Wilson Peak and waited for Homie in the dark. Just before eleven "...Homie banged on the truck before heading off to the porta-potty. When he returned I had the car running. He mentioned how tough that group was but was remarkably alert, in good spirits and surprisingly high in energy. The cold rainy conditions had caused him to not eat or drink much. He knew a crash in energy had to be coming and tried to eat some of the spaghetti I made for him." He had climbed eight peaks in the first 24 hours.</p>
<p>Wright then drove him over to Ouray and up to the Mount Sneffel's trailhead, where Homie headed out at 1:15 a.m. in the dark to climb <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/coloradosfourteeners/a/Facts-About-Mount-Sneffels.htm">Sneffels</a>, which he did round-trip in 3 hours 24 minutes with the mandatory 3,000 feet of elevation gain. From there it was up over 12,640-foot Cinnamon Pass on a rough <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://4wheeldrive.about.com/cs/offroadingtips/a/aa021203a.htm">4-wheel-drive</a> track, reaching the top at sunrise. Below the pass, Prater ran up three of the easier Fourteeners--Handies, Sunshine, and Redcloud. At that point in the ultra-marathon Prater was only 14 minutes ahead of Cave Dog's pace, which, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://homieprater.blogspot.com/">Bill Wright notes</a>, "is essentially a dead heat in something that will last almost 11 days."</p>
<p>Next Prater left the Nellie Trailhead at 3:55 a.m. to head up Uncompahgre Peak and then jog over to nab Wetterhorn Peak. He returned in heavy rain to the Matterhorn Trailhead at 10 p.m. and was driven east to the San Luis Trailhead where he ate before heading out to climb San Luis Peak at 1:27 a.m. Prater returned to the vehicle 5 hours and 21 minutes later and again headed east to the Willow Creek Trailhead on the west side of the Sangre de Cristo Range.</p>
<p>Today Homie left the car at 9:35 a.m. and headed up Willow Creek accompanied by Mark Oveson. The pair first climbed Challenger, then <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2010/11/09/should-kit-carson-mountain-be-renamed.htm">Kit Carson</a>, Humboldt, and Crestone Peak and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/historyofclimbing/a/1924-First-Ascent-Of-Ellingwood-Ledges.htm">Crestone Needle</a>, crossing the exposed rock ridge between the two, before descending down to Broken Hand Pass and on down to the South Colony Trailhead where Gerry and Jennifer Roach were waiting to pick Homie up and ferry him on to tomorrow's peak adventures--Culebra, Blanca, Little Bear, Ellingwood, Lindsey, and Pikes Peak.</p>
<p>Climbing all these <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/mountainclimbing/a/Fourteeners1.htm">Fourteeners</a> is a feat for most people but to be able to do it in under 11 days is amazing and simply beyond most athletes. It involves 138,558 feet of elevation gain, a couple hundred miles of hiking and climbing, a dedicated support team, a heck of a lot of motivation, and the ability to suffer. As Bill Wright notes on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://homieprater.blogspot.com/">the blog</a>: "To break the record takes incredible planning, toughness, and world-class endurance, but it also takes luck. Since he can't control the luck, all he can do is keep going, keep adjusting, keep strong, keep showing how badly he wants it."</p>
<p>Keep going, keep pushing John. We're cheering for you to break the record. Go Homie Go!</p>
<p>Photograph above: <em>The Knife Edge on Capitol Peak is one of the most precarious climbing sections on Colorado's Fourteeners.</em> Photograph &#169; Spencer Swanger.</p><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/26/ultra-climber-attempting-to-climb-58-colorado-fourteeners-in-11-days.htm">Ultra-Climber Attempting to Climb 58 Colorado Fourteeners in 11 Days</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Sunday, August 26th, 2012 at 00:48:53.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/26/ultra-climber-attempting-to-climb-58-colorado-fourteeners-in-11-days.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/26/ultra-climber-attempting-to-climb-58-colorado-fourteeners-in-11-days.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/26/ultra-climber-attempting-to-climb-58-colorado-fourteeners-in-11-days.htm&#038;zItl=Ultra-Climber Attempting to Climb 58 Colorado Fourteeners in 11 Days">Email this</a></p>
Will Climbing Make It into the 2020 Olympics?<p><img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/3/H/-/-/MiaAxon_Comp_VancouverBC_3.jpg" alt="" hspace="5" align="center" /></p>
<p>During the London Olympics I had a few people ask me if climbing was going to be in a future Olympics. One of our guides at <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.frontrangeclimbing.com/">Front Range Climbing Company</a> even told me that he heard it was going to be in the 2020 Olympics. The answer, however, to those questions is "No, climbing will not be in the Olympics."</p>
<p>I wrote a blog post <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2011/07/08/climbing-possible-for-2020-olympics-will-it-make-the-cut.htm">Climbing Possible for 2020 Olympics: Will It Make the Cut?</a> in July, 2011 about the topic after the IOC announced that climbing, along with baseball, karate, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://inlineskating.about.com/od/competitiveinlineskating/a/olympics.htm">roller sports</a>, softball, squash, wakeboard, and wushu, was one of eight sports being considered for a single spot in the 2020 Olympics in Madrid, Istanbul, or Tokyo. The IOC will decide next year which lucky sport will be included.</p>
<p>At the next summer Games in 2016 at <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://geography.about.com/b/2009/10/02/rio-de-janeiro-to-host-2016-summer-olympic-games.htm">Rio de Janiro</a>, golf and rugby will compete for medals for the first time since 1904 and 1924 respectively. For the next Games it's a total crap shoot. I talked a couple times in the past weeks to a couple people I know here in Colorado Springs that work for either the <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://gosw.about.com/b/2010/02/16/us-olympic-training-center.htm">U.S. Olympic Training Center</a> or one of the national sports federations headquartered here and both told me that climbing would not be in the 2020 Olympics and probably not in the foreseeable future.</p>
<p>It appears right now that <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://racquet.about.com/od/introtoracquetsports/p/squashprofile.htm">squash</a> is the frontrunner for Olympic inclusion. Squash is played on every continent and has been in the Commonwealth Games since 1996.</p>
<p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://baseball.about.com/od/olympicbaseball/a/whatisolybase.htm">Baseball</a> and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://baseball.about.com/od/olympicsoftball/a/olysoftballhub.htm">softball</a>, both former Olympic sports, have banded together for a single bid since their dismissal from the Games in 2008. Whether they get the nod remains to be seen, partly because few countries play the sports and the United States has dominated the competitions. It seems doubtful that they will be included so soon after getting the boot.</p>
<p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://martialarts.about.com/od/styles/a/karate.htm">Karate</a> and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://martialarts.about.com/od/styles/a/What-Is-Wushu.htm">wushu</a>, both martial arts, are longer shots since two other martial arts are already contested; they would, however, be inexpensive to add and would allow some smaller countries a chance for medals.</p>
<p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://inlineskating.about.com/b/2012/08/12/roller-sports-in-the-olympics.htm">Roller sports</a> are also iffy, particularly since most athletes in inline hockey, inline speed skating, artistic roller skating, and roller derby are from North America and Europe.</p>
<p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://waterski.about.com/od/wakeboardingbeginnertips/a/learntoboard.htm">Wakeboarding</a> is a young and new sport, like snowboarding and BMX, which appeal to youthful audiences, and the advent of using cables instead of motorboats to pull the athletes over the course levels the playing field. Big drawback is that wakeboarding is popular primarily in North America, Europe, and Australia.</p>
<p>Which leaves climbing as the last entrant. The IOC has been impressed with the sportsmanship exhibited by competing climbers in international competitions but climbing has a small following, few competitions, and little media coverage beyond specialty climbing magazines and websites. Climbing, as proposed for the Olympics, would be divided into three disciplines--lead climbing, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/cliimbingtechniques/a/SportClimbing1.htm">speed climbing</a>, and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/cliimbingtechniques/a/AboutBouldering.htm">bouldering</a>. It remains to be seen if climbing will make the final cut next year to compete with the leading sports for the opportunity to be in the 2020 Olympics. According to my expert sources, the short answer is: "Don't hold your breath."</p>
<p>John Long, a leading climber from the 1970s and a well-known climbing writer (a fellow FalconGuide author with me), talked with John Spaulding at <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.falcon.com/features/long-onclimbing-olympic-sport">falcon.com</a> about the possibilities of climbing in the Olympics, what it's impact would be on the sport of climbing, and if climbing's inclusion in the Games would greatly increase its popularity. Read the full interview <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.falcon.com/features/long-onclimbing-olympic-sport">Long On...Climbing as an Olympic Sport</a>.</p><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/17/will-climbing-make-it-into-the-2020-madrid-olympics.htm">Will Climbing Make It into the 2020 Olympics?</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Friday, August 17th, 2012 at 22:06:22.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/17/will-climbing-make-it-into-the-2020-madrid-olympics.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/17/will-climbing-make-it-into-the-2020-madrid-olympics.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/17/will-climbing-make-it-into-the-2020-madrid-olympics.htm&#038;zItl=Will Climbing Make It into the 2020 Olympics?">Email this</a></p>
Will Climbing Make It into the 2020 Madrid Olympics?<p><img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/3/H/-/-/MiaAxon_Comp_VancouverBC_3.jpg" alt="" hspace="5" align="center" /></p>
<p>During the London Olympics I had a few people ask me if climbing was going to be in a future Olympics. One of our guides at <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.frontrangeclimbing.com/">Front Range Climbing Company</a> even told me that he heard it was going to be in the 2020 Olympics. The answer, however, to those questions is "No, climbing will not be in the Olympics."</p>
<p>I wrote a blog post <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2011/07/08/climbing-possible-for-2020-olympics-will-it-make-the-cut.htm">Climbing Possible for 2020 Olympics: Will It Make the Cut?</a> in July, 2011 about the topic after the IOC announced that climbing, along with baseball, karate, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://inlineskating.about.com/od/competitiveinlineskating/a/olympics.htm">roller sports</a>, softball, squash, wakeboard, and wushu, was one of eight sports being considered for a single spot in the 2020 Olympics in Madrid, Spain. The IOC will decide next year which lucky sport will be included.</p>
<p>At the next summer Games in 2016 at <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://geography.about.com/b/2009/10/02/rio-de-janeiro-to-host-2016-summer-olympic-games.htm">Rio de Janiro</a>, golf and rugby will compete for medals for the first time since 1904 and 1924 respectively. For the next Games it's a total crap shoot. I talked a couple times in the past weeks to a couple people I know here in Colorado Springs that work for either the <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://gosw.about.com/b/2010/02/16/us-olympic-training-center.htm">U.S. Olympic Training Center</a> or one of the national sports federations headquartered here and both told me that climbing would not be in the 2020 Olympics and probably not in the foreseeable future.</p>
<p>It appears right now that <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://racquet.about.com/od/introtoracquetsports/p/squashprofile.htm">squash</a> is the frontrunner for Olympic inclusion. Squash is played on every continent and has been in the Commonwealth Games since 1996.</p>
<p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://baseball.about.com/od/olympicbaseball/a/whatisolybase.htm">Baseball</a> and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://baseball.about.com/od/olympicsoftball/a/olysoftballhub.htm">softball</a>, both former Olympic sports, have banded together for a single bid since their dismissal from the Games in 2008. Whether they get the nod remains to be seen, partly because few countries play the sports and the United States has dominated the competitions. It seems doubtful that they will be included so soon after getting the boot.</p>
<p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://martialarts.about.com/od/styles/a/karate.htm">Karate</a> and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://martialarts.about.com/od/styles/a/What-Is-Wushu.htm">wushu</a>, both martial arts, are longer shots since two other martial arts are already contested; they would, however, be inexpensive to add and would allow some smaller countries a chance for medals.</p>
<p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://inlineskating.about.com/b/2012/08/12/roller-sports-in-the-olympics.htm">Roller sports</a> are also iffy, particularly since most athletes in inline hockey, inline speed skating, artistic roller skating, and roller derby are from North America and Europe.</p>
<p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://waterski.about.com/od/wakeboardingbeginnertips/a/learntoboard.htm">Wakeboarding</a> is a young and new sport, like snowboarding and BMX, which appeal to youthful audiences, and the advent of using cables instead of motorboats to pull the athletes over the course levels the playing field. Big drawback is that wakeboarding is popular primarily in North America, Europe, and Australia.</p>
<p>Which leaves climbing as the last entrant. The IOC has been impressed with the sportsmanship exhibited by competing climbers in international competitions but climbing has a small following, few competitions, and little media coverage beyond specialty climbing magazines and websites. Climbing, as proposed for the Olympics, would be divided into three disciplines--lead climbing, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/cliimbingtechniques/a/SportClimbing1.htm">speed climbing</a>, and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/cliimbingtechniques/a/AboutBouldering.htm">bouldering</a>. It remains to be seen if climbing will make the final cut next year to compete with the leading sports for the opportunity to be in the 2020 Olympics. According to my expert sources, the short answer is: "Don't hold your breath."</p>
<p>John Long, a leading climber from the 1970s and a well-known climbing writer (a fellow FalconGuide author with me), talked with John Spaulding at <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.falcon.com/features/long-onclimbing-olympic-sport">falcon.com</a> about the possibilities of climbing in the Olympics, what it's impact would be on the sport of climbing, and if climbing's inclusion in the Games would greatly increase its popularity. Read the full interview <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://www.falcon.com/features/long-onclimbing-olympic-sport">Long On...Climbing as an Olympic Sport</a>.</p>
<p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/17/will-climbing-make-it-into-the-2020-madrid-olympics.htm">Will Climbing Make It into the 2020 Madrid Olympics?</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Friday, August 17th, 2012 at 22:06:22.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/17/will-climbing-make-it-into-the-2020-madrid-olympics.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/17/will-climbing-make-it-into-the-2020-madrid-olympics.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/17/will-climbing-make-it-into-the-2020-madrid-olympics.htm&#038;zItl=Will Climbing Make It into the 2020 Madrid Olympics?">Email this</a></p>
New Climbing Gear at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2012<p><img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/w/G/-/-/ORShow_Jon-Cam_3.jpg" alt="hspace=" align="center" /></p>
<p>I spent four days last week and weekend at the <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2011/08/06/outdoor-retailer-show-update-sharma-magnetron-carabiners-ultralight-tips.htm">Outdoor Retailer Summer Market</a> in Salt Lake City. The outdoor expo, with some 30,000 industry attendees, over a million square feet of exhibition space, and thousands of vendors, is the place to see all the new and innovative outdoor products and what's going to be on sale next year in your local climbing shop.</p>
<p>Climbing equipment, like most other categories of outdoor products, is evolving with less new products but more innovation for existing product lines. Climbing gear manufacturers are looking to design products that are lighter, more comfortable, perform better, and are more durable than previous items. Durability is, of course, one of the key components of climbing gear since most of us abuse the heck out of our equipment when we're climbing. Climbing consumers are demanding durability, which translates to better value for the buck.</p>
<p>Jon Jonckers, a rep with Omega Pacific, one of the leading carabiner manufacturers, says that climbing companies are "investing in strength, durability and added safety, along with price and weight savings." While climbers have traditionally been slow to adapt new products, usually preferring their tried-and-true gear, climbers now are increasingly willing to accept and try new products.</p>
<p>Over the next couple days I'm going to detail some of the new climbing products that I looked at, handled, and discussed with company reps at the OR show. These include <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/helmets.htm">helmets</a>, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/climbingropes/a/RopeCare1.htm">ropes</a>, <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/All-About-Climbing-Packs.htm">packs</a>, power packs, and other cool items.</p>
<p>Photograph above: <em>Cameron and Jonathan H&#246;rst hold all of their dad's (Eric H&#246;rst) climbing and training books at the FalconGuide booth at the Outdoor Retailer show last week.</em> Photograph &#169; Stewart M. Green</p><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/07/new-climbing-gear-at-the-outdoor-retailer-summer-market-2012.htm">New Climbing Gear at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2012</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Tuesday, August 7th, 2012 at 11:06:48.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/07/new-climbing-gear-at-the-outdoor-retailer-summer-market-2012.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/07/new-climbing-gear-at-the-outdoor-retailer-summer-market-2012.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/08/07/new-climbing-gear-at-the-outdoor-retailer-summer-market-2012.htm&#038;zItl=New Climbing Gear at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2012">Email this</a></p>
Climbing Writer Michael Ybarra Dies in Yosemite Fall<p><img src="http://0.tqn.com/d/climbing/1/0/v/G/-/-/YbarraIceClimbing22.jpg" alt="" hspace="5" align="center" /></p>
<p>On Sunday, July 1, 45-year-old Michael Ybarra was soloing across the Sawtooth Ridge, a jagged ridge studded with toothed summits between 12,280-foot Matterhorn Peak, the highest peak on the ridge, and Cleaver Peak. Somewhere along the ridge, after summitting Matterhorn Peak, Ybarra lost his grip or broke a foothold and <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/od/sportclimbing/a/HowToFall.htm">fell</a> about 200 feet to his death.</p>
<p>Michael Ybarra was a writer who covered extreme sports, including rock and ice climbing, for the <em>Wall Street Journal</em> since 2007, as well as the author of the biography <em>Washington Gone Crazy</em>, which came out in 2004, the year he started climbing. In remembering Ybarra, the <em>Journal</em> called him "an extraordinary journalist. In the best traditions of his profession he enlightened and engaged readers on a wide array of topics in clear, vivid prose."</p>
<p>Indeed, I always enjoyed reading his articles about climbing and adventure and the way he made the physical and mental difficulties of climbing accessible to the general public. His writing was always succinct and straight-forward with no-handholds barred.</p>
<p>As he wrote last year in the <em>Wall Street Journal</em> about climbing a Montana mountain: "Climbing in the mountains is serious business. Mistakes carry consequences -- for yourself and for your partner. At night I lay awake wondering if I should just go back to gym climbing or find a more sensible sport, such as table tennis."</p>
<p>Or about climbing an icefall in 2008: "Part of the attraction (and no little of the terror) of climbing is problem-solving, figuring out what to do in a situation where there are no great options and no little peril in making a wrong move."</p>
<p>Ybarra was reported missing on Monday morning after failing to return texts and calls from family after a two-day solo climb on the Sawtooth Ridge in the High Sierras on the northeast boundary of <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://usparks.about.com/od/yosemite/p/yose_overview.htm">Yosemite National Park</a>. A ground search and rescue failed to find him so a National Guard helicopter was summoned. The crew located Ybarra's body below the ridge on Tuesday, but he was not airlifted out until Wednesday, July 4.</p>
<p>His sister Suzanne wrote on her Facebook page: "He died doing what he loved most."</p>
<p>Read climbing articles in the <i>Wall Street Journal</i> by Michael Ybarra:<br />
<strong><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704644404575481981878247658.htm">This Vacation Left Me Climbing the Walls</a><br />
<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052970203611404577046162916920928.html">Training for the Big Wall</a><br />
<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703712504576237022676458868.html">After the Fall, a Lingering Doubt</a><br />
<a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704103904575336873092981724-search.html?KEYWORDS=MICHAEL J YBARRA&#038;COLLECTION=wsjie/6month">Simply Because It's There?</a></strong></p>
<p>Photograph above: <em>Michael Ybarra loved climbing in the high mountains on rock and snow.</em> Photograph courtesy Michael Ybarra/Facebook.</p><p style="background:#f5f3ef;border:1px solid #d5d0bf;clear:both;padding:.5em;"><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/07/29/climbing-writer-michael-ybarra-dies-in-yosemite-fall.htm">Climbing Writer Michael Ybarra Dies in Yosemite Fall</a> originally appeared on <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/">About.com Climbing</a> on Sunday, July 29th, 2012 at 12:33:46.</p><p><a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/07/29/climbing-writer-michael-ybarra-dies-in-yosemite-fall.htm">Permalink</a> | <a href="http://clk.about.com/?zi=1/1hc&#038;zu=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/07/29/climbing-writer-michael-ybarra-dies-in-yosemite-fall.htm#gB3">Comment</a> | <a href="http://climbing.about.com/gi/pages/shareurl.htm?PG=http://climbing.about.com/b/2012/07/29/climbing-writer-michael-ybarra-dies-in-yosemite-fall.htm&#038;zItl=Climbing Writer Michael Ybarra Dies in Yosemite Fall">Email this</a></p>
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